{"id":399062,"date":"2019-05-22T12:40:42","date_gmt":"2019-05-22T10:40:42","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/hudo.com\/si\/?p=399062"},"modified":"2019-05-22T12:40:42","modified_gmt":"2019-05-22T10:40:42","slug":"slovenca-na-aljaski-stopala-po-poteh-kamor-se-ni-stopila-cloveska-noga","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/hudo.com\/si\/aktualno\/slovenca-na-aljaski-stopala-po-poteh-kamor-se-ni-stopila-cloveska-noga\/","title":{"rendered":"Slovenca na Aljaski stopala po poteh, kamor \u0161e ni stopila \u010dlove\u0161ka noga"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n

Po dol\u017eini smeri in zahtevnosti sestopa izstopa 1300-metrska Slovenska smer na goro Apocalypse North (Apokalipsa Sever). \u010clana kranjskega alpinisti\u010dnega odseka sta od sredine marca do sredine aprila pre\u017eivela v osamljenih gorah, kjer je v zadnjem desetletju raziskovala povpre\u010dno ena alpinisti\u010dna odprava letno, dostop do baznega tabora pa je mogo\u010d le z letalom, so sporo\u010dili iz Planinske zveze Slovenije (PZS).<\/p>\n

“Najve\u010dji pe\u010dat plezanju nad ledenikom Revelation daje odmaknjenost od civilizacije, kar pomeni, da je vsa komunikacija omejena na sporo\u010dila prek satelitskega telefona, prihod in odhod v bazni tabor pa sta odvisna od lepega vremena. Vreme je tam zelo spremenljivo, kar sva najbolj ob\u010dutila prve dni, ko nama je veter zvil nosilne palice v \u0161otoru in naju je med plezanjem po grebenu prisilil h gibanju po kolenih,” je vsakodnevni boj z naravo orisal Svolj\u0161ak, vodja odprave, ki jo je podprla tudi PZS.<\/p>\n

Vremenski izzivi se niso kon\u010dali pri tem: “Zaradi mo\u010dnega vetra je v stenah veliko napihanega snega, zato sva v smereh dvakrat obra\u010dala, v \u0161tevilnih razte\u017eajih pa sva morala najprej sneg odstraniti, da sva pri\u0161la do skale ali ledu. Odstranjevanje snega s cepinom v navpi\u010dnem terenu ni lahko opravilo in je kdaj celo te\u017eje kot samo plezanje.”<\/p>\n

Petindvajsetletni \u0160kofjelo\u010dan, ki je v preteklosti \u017ee plezal na alpinisti\u010dnih odpravah, je leta 2016 postal evropski prvak v lednem plezanju in zmagovalec na tekmi svetovnega pokala.<\/p>\n

Potem ko jima je vzpon na Piramide Peak onemogo\u010dil napihan sneg, sta se alpinista 21. marca usmerila proti bli\u017enjemu neosvojenemu vrhu Four Horsemen East (2600 m); sedemurni vzpon po vzhodnem grebenu (600-metrska smer East Ridge) so zaznamovali strmo ga\u017eenje, kombinirano plezanje, iskanje prehodov in pre\u010denje grebena do vrha v mo\u010dnem vetru, ki ju je prisilil v gibanje po vseh \u0161tirih.<\/p>\n

Po dnevu v bazi sta opravila dober, z mo\u010dnimi pr\u0161nimi plazovi za\u010dinjen poskus v vzhodni steni Golgothe (2724 m), ki jima ga je prepre\u010dil s snegom napihan previs, v isti steni pa sta 27. marca preplezala 900-metrsko smer, ki sta jo poimenovala O\u010de\/Father, vrh pa dosegla v \u0161estih urah.<\/p>\n

Naslednjo 750-metrsko smer Skrivnost\/Secret sta si izbrala v zatrepu na za\u010detku ledenika; v odli\u010dnih sne\u017eno-lednih razmerah s strmim odsekom lednega plezanja in izstopnim skalnim previsom sta po sedmih urah in pol plezanja stopila na 2450 metrov visok vrh, ki sta ga poimenovala Zid objokovanja\/Wailing Wall.<\/p>\n

Prvi april je bil dan za novo prvenstveno smer in prvi pristop na vrh Apocalypse North (2750 m), za vzpon na katerega sta po 1300-metrski Slovenski smeri potrebovala osem ur in pol. Za slovo od Aljaske sta z Zupinom 5. aprila v sedmih urah preplezala \u0161e prvenstveno 700-metrsko smer Zadnja ve\u010derja za sne\u017ene bojevnike\/The Last Supper for snow strugglers.<\/p>\n

* Opravljeni vzponi naveze Svolj\u0161ak-Zupin na Aljaski:
\n– Four Horsemen East (2600 m): Vzhodni greben, M6\/M4, 50\u00b0-70\u00b0, A1, 600 m, 7 h (vzpon na neosvojen vrh)
\n– Golgotha (2724 m): O\u010de, Ai5, 50\u00b0-70\u00b0, 900 m, 6 h
\n– Wailing Wall (2450 m): Skrivnost, Ai6\/Ai4+, 750 m, 7,5 h (vzpon na neosvojen vrh)
\n– Apocalypse North (2750 m): slovenska smer, Ai4+ R, M6, 50\u00b0-80\u00b0, 1300 m, 8,5 h (vzpon na neosvojen vrh)
\n– Seraph (2650 m): Zadnja ve\u010derja za sne\u017ene bojevnike, M7\/M4-5, 50\u00b0-80\u00b0, 700 m, 7 h<\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Gorenjska alpinista Janez Svolj\u0161ak in Miha Zupin sta marca in aprila v odmaknjenih gorah nad ledenikom Revelation na Aljaski preplezala pet kompleksnih prvenstvenih smeri v skupni dol\u017eini 4250 metrov, tri od teh so pripeljale na devi\u0161ke vrhove.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":5,"featured_media":399064,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1179],"tags":[1926,4177,13742,13743,1595],"source":[4511],"supertag":[6098],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nSlovenca na Aljaski stopala po poteh, kamor \u0161e ni stopila \u010dlove\u0161ka noga - Hudo Slovenija<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/hudo.com\/si\/aktualno\/slovenca-na-aljaski-stopala-po-poteh-kamor-se-ni-stopila-cloveska-noga\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"sl_SI\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Slovenca na Aljaski stopala po poteh, kamor \u0161e ni stopila \u010dlove\u0161ka noga - Hudo Slovenija\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Gorenjska alpinista Janez Svolj\u0161ak in Miha Zupin sta marca in aprila v odmaknjenih gorah nad ledenikom Revelation na Aljaski preplezala pet kompleksnih prvenstvenih smeri v skupni dol\u017eini 4250 metrov, tri od teh so pripeljale na devi\u0161ke vrhove.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/hudo.com\/si\/aktualno\/slovenca-na-aljaski-stopala-po-poteh-kamor-se-ni-stopila-cloveska-noga\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Hudo Slovenija\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/hudo.si\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2019-05-22T10:40:42+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/hudo.com\/si\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2019\/05\/profimedia-0318927777.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"1250\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"833\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"A. G., STA\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:creator\" content=\"@hudo_si\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:site\" content=\"@hudo_si\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"A. G., STA\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"3 minute\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/hudo.com\/si\/aktualno\/slovenca-na-aljaski-stopala-po-poteh-kamor-se-ni-stopila-cloveska-noga\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/hudo.com\/si\/aktualno\/slovenca-na-aljaski-stopala-po-poteh-kamor-se-ni-stopila-cloveska-noga\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"A. 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